In 1838, nestled just off the one lane road in Glen Luss, when Glenmalloch farm was undergoing rebuilding, the medieval ruins of a chapel dedicated to St. Michaels was used as a source of building material until the laird, Sir James 26th of Colquhoun & 28th of Luss & 4th Baronet (1836-1873), intervened. The St. Michaels Chapel, previously referred to as “The Chapel”, fell out of use about the time of the Reformation - estimated at late 16th Century. Precious items were saved when the site of the chapel was excavated. “An arched stone vault with narrow lancet openings was discovered, as well as other artifacts including a baptismal font, a crucifix, and other ecclesiastical garniture." Also found in the corner of and inside wall were gold and silver coins dating back to the reign of King James IV (1488-1513A.D.). (I am wondering what might be found if a metal detector was used at the site).
In 1852, Sir James enclosed the site of the ancient Chapel of St. Michael's, with an iron railing. Granite with simple scrolled ashlar molding; inscription in Latin on one side and Gaelic inscription on converse. It was translated in 1891 by Donald MacLeod as: "St Michael's Chapel. James, Laird of Colquhoun and Luss, caused this monument to be erected to the memory of a bye-gone piety, and of those psalms formerly sung to the honor of God (in this place), now, alas, completely dilapidated."
In 1973 it was observed that “this chapel, of which only the lower courses of the walls now remain, is said to be of pre-Reformation date. Immediately to the North of the chapel is a terrace, measuring 13m by 6m, which may have carried another building.”
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The remains of St. Michael's Chapel
measure 28' by 14' 9" internally. What is left of the walls are about 3'
4" thick, and nowhere more than 2' high. The doorway was in the south
wall. The stonework of the fabric suggests that a later chapel was built on the
foundations of an older building. Adjacent to the chapel, on a platform, are the
scanty remains of a structure which must have been related to it. Most of it is
now (Spring 2024) over grown with thick foliage.
At the end of the Glen Luss Road, you
will find Edintaggart, an anglicization of aodan t-sagairt (Galic) meaning “the
hill face of the priest.” The farm stands on the site of the house of the
priest who officiated at St. Michael's Chapel. It may also be the farm that was
raided by the MacGregors in December 1602. Glen Luss was also the most
convenient path that the Colquhoun Clan took in 1603 to fight in the Battle of
Glen Fruin.
Prayer to St Michael
“Saint Michael the Archangel, defend
us in battle. Be our protection against the wickedness and snares of the devil.
Restrain him, O God, we humbly pray; and do you, O Prince of the Heavenly Host,
by the power of God, thrust into hell Satan and all the other evil spirits who
wander through the world seeking the ruin and destruction of souls. Amen.”
In my most recent trip (May 2024), early one morning I drove up the Glen Luss to see what is left of the chapel. This was my first visit and so I arrived where the GPS coordinates pointed (see “How to get there” note below) and started hiking up the hill on my right (north). I tramped around the area starting to NE of the spot where I left the car. Being on a one-lane road I had to pull off in a passing turn-out which happed to be right at the coordinates for the chapel. Not finding it after about ½ an hour of tramping through the marshy thick foliage, I was disappointed and headed back towards where I parked. As I descended the hill, I fortunately stumbled across the site of the chapel (see photos and video). It was just north of where I parked. I walked around it and saw the old memorial stone and the iron railing. Thrilled I retuned south about 10 yards to my car. I found it appropriate that a Blackfaced Ram (see blog about rams-head bridge) followed me and it looked like he was the guardian of the ancient St. Michael’s Chapel. I thought for a while he may charge me, but since I was leaving, he just stood his ground.
The chapel ruins can be found a little over 1.5 miles from the village of Luss, up Glen Luss on the right. From A82 heading north before you get to the overpass bridge there will be a sign pointing to Glen Luss – turn left (See Google Map photos) and head up this beautiful glen to the GPS Coordinates: 56.110786, -4.677359 (also see Canmore & Google maps directions) Park at the passing turn out and head to the right (north) off the road and there you will find the chapel ruins. If you have the time and are able to hike, this is a beautiful area to hike up to this and the Rams head bridge and another ½ mile further.
